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All posts for the year 2013

We have been very apprehensive about climbing over the mountains at 8259 feet at Emory Pass ever since we mapped this ride last summer. It’s been said before that worry is a waste of imagination. How true it is because this section was beyond description. Yes, it is hard to do more than 4,000 feet of climbing, all of it at 5,000 feet or higher. I don’t have enough synonyms for beautiful and spectacular to describe the natural beauty in this part of New Mexico so I will post the pictures we took and hope you can appreciate what we saw. The smell of the pine forest and the lack of machine noise (except a slowly passing car once in a while) made this a ride I would do again if I could.

A few miles from Silver City. This might be The Twin Sisters.

A few miles from Silver City. This might be The Twin Sisters.

Another huge strip mine on Rt. 152

Another huge strip mine on Rt. 152

The views are getting better as we go higher.

The views are getting better as we go higher.

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We are in a canyon here. After climbing above 7,000 feet we came back down to 6,000 and then made our way up to 8,200 at Emory Pass.

We are in a canyon here. After climbing above 7,000 feet we came back down to 6,000 and then made our way up to 8,200 at Emory Pass.

There is a woodpecker in this picture.

There is a woodpecker in this picture.

We made it to the top. We were very happy and proud of ourselves. From here it is 6 miles down to Hillsboro.

We made it to the top. We were very happy and proud of ourselves. From here it is 6 miles down to Hillsboro.

Emory Pass vista is a few hundred feet off the main road.

Emory Pass vista is a few hundred feet off the main road.

It was a perfect clear day. Temperature around 50 degrees.

It was a perfect clear day. Temperature around 50 degrees.

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Day 5 had some fun parts and some less fun parts. I think my dad’s grumpiness rubbed off on me a little.

Highlights: 

  • Working out in the Comfort Inn. I have very little self control when it comes to salty snacks (I have been known to finish a large bag of tour-till-ah chips by myself in one sitting) and need to offset all the chips, Triscuits, and beer. Even though we’ve stayed at brand name places throughout L2, this was the first place to have a gym.
  • Lunch at Tre Rosat Cafe. Great pizza and good moods all around. On the bottles of the Mirror Pond Pale Ale some of us had, it said, “If you could only listen to one album for the rest of your life, what would it be?” Mark said Revolver. I said Third/Sister Lovers. But on reflection it would probably make me feel crazy after a while. I guess anything would, though, so maybe an album that’s already a little crazy is the best choice. I also tried to tell Mark to give Sinatra a chance by listening to In the Wee Small Hours but I know you won’t, Mark. That’s okay.
  • Doing laundry. I got to feel domestic, and everybody likes having clean clothes.
Mimicking Mark's bathroom self-portrait in Tre Rosat

Mimicking Mark’s bathroom self-portrait in Tre Rosat — I think I did pretty well copying his wide-eyed expression

Whiny lowlights: 

  • Another minivan on Midnight Rider’s tail for most of the drive. (It was white; maybe it was the Betrayed Ghost of Great White.) It’d be cool if cars had the ability to post messages in their rear window for the car behind them. It would be in the form of a voice-controlled LED sign. My sign would have said, “DUDE, JUST PASS ME.” This is a great invention but I’m sure it would result in more road rage deaths so maybe it’s not actually that great.
  • A cold interaction at the Holiday Inn check-in. The woman was professional but impersonal. I asked her for a dinner recommendation and she told me where I could find a list — which is fine, and yes, I could have pressed and said, “But what restaurants do you like?” I just didn’t like her fake-friendly tone. She made me feel fake welcome. She also put me in Room 223, and I hate numbers that are one off from being all the same digit. Also the handle on my room’s door was attached upside down. I forget that the backwardness only applies to the door and keep trying to flush the toilet by pushing the handle up.
  • Dinner at Wendy’s. It’s more important for the guys to get rest than to experience the city, and the Wendy’s was near the hotel. As SAG driver you sometimes need to take one for the team.
  • Mild anxiety about not getting any work done. I told someone I would finish their project this week and don’t think it’s going to happen. Sorry, NR!
The sun rises over Lordsburg

The sun rises over Lordsburg

Bye, boys

No time for posing today

Rural route mailboxes where I stopped to refuel the guys

Rural route mailboxes where I stopped to refuel the guys

Testing out the new bike seat

Testing out the new bike seat

Hotel Art of the Day

Shapes and hatch marks  on rustic blocks of color 48"x24" Holiday Inn Express, Silver City, NM

Shapes and hatch marks on rustic blocks of color
~48″x28″
Holiday Inn Express, Silver City, NM

Hotel Art Score

5/10. This is similar in tone to yesterday’s piece. I did a little research, and of course art specifically for hotels is a real thing. There are a bunch of sources, but this place has the best website. You can search for art by what colors it has so that you can best match it to the room. This particular piece would be categorized as Abstract (don’t bother looking for it, though — I just did and it isn’t there, though similar pieces are).

Art Art Score

3/10. If the artist told me this represents how he feels inside or some other concept he feels is important, I’d be like, “Okay, this is kind of a lame and ineffective expression of that, but who I am to judge.” It’s the cynical “I’m going to make money with some hotel art” thing done with just a touch more gusto. But let’s be clear: it’s still bad.

Now the fun starts. Today was the first of our two days of climbing. It’s not that the hills are insanely steep it’s just that they are so long. We have hills this steep in PA, but they don’t go on for miles on end. Our first hill today was about 12 miles. Not excessively steep, just looooonnnnngggggg.

As the day went on, the wind increased and became a stiff cross wind. It was so strong at times that it felt like it was going to blow you and your bike off the rode. When the wind is blowing that hard it feels safer to be going at slower speeds. When we had descents, we all rode our brakes to keep our speeds down. We all agreed that biking today with the cross wind was scarier than the tunnel. I hope this doesn’t freak you out Mar.

Mark was his entertaining self today. I can’t believe Brian posted that video. We needed the laughs to take our minds off our quads. I am confident we will get thru tomorrow. It should be the most challenging day of the trip. We have to get over Emory Pass which is 8228. I think I read somewhere that we will climb 4000 feet tomorrow. Hey if this was easy, everyone would be doing it. Well, maybe not everyone.

The requisite "Goodbye,  Mom" shot, Safford, AZ

The requisite “Bye, Mom” shot, Safford, AZ

Day 4: Safford, Arizona to Lordsburg, New Mexico. I got to cross a new state off my list today!

This was a wonderful drive. No one else was on the road, the mountains were romantically misty in the distance, and the weather was just beautiful. I truly felt that I owned the road, the land, the sky, everything — it seemed to be there just for me. It was a little like being in a car commercial.

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Taken while driving 65 mph because I could see for miles and no one was around

We planned to stop in Duncan, the only town “with services” between Safford and Lordsburg, for lunch. I beat the guys there, so I drove around a little bit to get a feel for it. I felt like an intruder, though. A guy on a motorcycle gave me a curious look, and I kept passing by the same two men in cowboy hats, feeling conspicuous and out of place. At least Midnight Rider has Arizona plates.

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I would like to believe that it’s still 1908 inside this bank

I saw a sign that read VETERANS MEMORIAL (JET PLANE), so I followed the arrow and drove up a big hill to check it out. Here is the memorial:

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VETERANS MEMORIAL (JET PLANE)

Pretty cool, isn’t it? Something you might like to see close up and read about, right? Me, too. Except, see that wooden fence in the background? There’s a Doberman behind that fence.

As I walked toward the plane, the Doberman popped out from behind the fence, hopped excitedly like in a Warner Bros. cartoon (in my memory he licks his lips), and began giving chase. I didn’t even have time to think “holy shit” — I just turned around and ran girlishly in my dumb sandals all the way back to MR. Luckily (seriously, luckily) I had a good head start. I turned around when I got back to the van and saw that he’d paused, apparently deciding I was no longer worth his time. But no way was I going to attempt to read about that memorial again. I should have taken a picture of the dog, but I was too spooked.

Not willing to attempt to do anything else in Duncan without backup, I parked MR in a playground and waited. The boys showed up soon after, and we had a surprisingly tasty lunch at Ol’ Jo’s Cafe. You think you can only get good food in New York and then the rest of America surprises you. All of our meals were made by a single wiry. hard-working woman in the kitchen, and Ol’ Jo’s was packed by the time we left. I hope you left a good tip, Dad.

Tim and Mark compare notes on Google's distance projections. All our phones said slightly different things.

Tim and Mark compare notes on Google’s distance projections. All of our phones said slightly different things.

The drive from Duncan to Lordsburg was equally empty of other cars and just as fun as the morning. It was marvelous in the true meaning of the word.

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In the Land of Enchantment at last

Hotel Art of the Day

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Enigmatic illustrations against rustic colored blocks
~ 30″x30″
Comfort Inn and Suites, Lordsburg, NM

Hotel Art Score

5/10. If you don’t look too closely, the colors add some warmth and “interest” to the room. Maybe it’s supposed to represent the exoticism of exploring new vistas? I have no idea.

Art Art Score

2/10.  What is going on here? You can’t see it, but there are blurry bits of Latin text in spots. It’s like someone tried to imagine what a bad scrapbook by Leonardo da Vinci would look like if he had lived in the 2000s. It seems like it was a not-unpleasant design assignment, and it certainly required some skill to execute, but if even if the artist told me that s/he was really inspired to make this, I would have a hard time believing it. I think cynical forces are at play again.

Today I learned why Laura is so afraid of wind. We had 30 mph crosswinds during some long descents. I was nearly knocked me off my bike multiple times. I was more stressed riding the last leg of 10 miles into Silver City than I was in the Queen Creek Tunnel.

Tim started us off by singing “Monday, Monday” by the Mamas and Papas. Much better. I pulled it up on my iTunes and played on our first break.

We knew there would be some climbing today. For the first portion out of Lordsburg, we had a moderate steady incline. No downhill portions at all but that was alright because it wasn’t too steep. We hit the Continental Divide (6348 feet) about 25 miles from the start. We thought it would be a nice easy ride the rest of the way because Silver City is at an elevation of about 5900 feet. But unfortunately, the wind picked up and we had many steep drops and climbs the rest of the way.

Silver City is bigger than I imagined but nicer, too. The historic section has a hip vibe and some newer restaurants and shops. The main drag has big store like Albertson’s and Wal-Mart, etc. Western New Mexico University is here. It must help drive the local economy.

I took lots of pictures and even some videos today.

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Early morning sky looking back towards Lordsburg at 7:30 this morning

Early morning sky looking back towards Lordsburg at 7:30 this morning

Slowly climbing from the start

Slowly climbing from the start

The vegetation begins to change as get higher

The vegetation begins to change as get higher

The sky is amazing out here.

The sky is amazing out here.

Within minutes the pine forest began. There is a hawk in center of the tree, just sitting on a branch.

Within minutes the pine forest began. There is a hawk in center of the tree, just sitting on a branch.

It was a great feeling when we reached this high point

It was a great feeling when we reached this high point

Tyrone strip mining project. This was around where the crosswinds became dangerous.

Tyrone strip mining project. This was around where the crosswinds became dangerous.

Our last snack break. We had to find places out of the wind to eat and rest.

Our last snack break. We had to find places out of the wind to eat and rest.

A wonderful restroom in tre Rosat Cafe where we had the best pizza ever.

A wonderful restroom in tre Rosat Cafe where we had the best pizza ever.

We left our nice hotel in Lordsburg, NM just after 7 a.m. in the morning, and made our way back the way we had come the previous afternoon, using U.S. 70 West until it hit N.M. 90.  Along the way, we passed our first Border Patrol Station, which I had not noticed yesterday.  Once on N.M. 90, it was a long, long climb with no help at all from the wind.  And after having ridden for 4 straight days, I was not a happy camper to have to immediately start climbing.  But after our second rest stop, Mark cheered me up.  Check out this video to find out why! 🙂

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A little later, we came upon a historical marker, which seem to just suck Tim in so that he can read them.  So here is a clip of Tim reading to his apparently illiterate brothers! 🙂

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Our next major event was when we reached the Continental Divide, at an elevation of 6,335 feet, meaning we had climbed almost 2,500 feet.  Here is a short video I took when I made it to the Continental Divide.

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By the time of our next stop, the vegetation along NM 90 was way different from what it was at the junction of NM 90 with U.S. 70, all the way back in Lordsburg.  The terrain is again “Kansas grassy” with some evergreen trees popping out of the ground, and lots of cactus plants mingled in also.  Here is a picture of the fields along NM 90 about 20 miles west of Silver City.

Tim, trees and cacti along NM 90, 20 miles outside of Silver City, NM.

Tim, trees and cacti along NM 90, 20 miles outside of Silver City, NM.

We made it to Silver City and our hotel shortly after 1 p.m. for our earliest arrival time yet.  Still, it took us 6 hours to ride all of about 49 miles and climb 2,500 feet.  Silver City is at an elevation of 5,938 feet, so we ended up about 400 feet lower than our highest point at the Continental Divide.  But for me, this was the hardest day so far on L2.

After showering and changing, Beth drove us into the downtown area of Silver City.  We visited Twin Sister bike store, where I purchased a better rear view mirror for my helmet, a better pair of sunglasses, and a new seat for my bike (at the insistence of Tim, Mark and Beth).  Tim and Mark both feel I expend too much energy standing and pedaling to help save my sore butt.  Hope it’s not too difficult to install on my bike – Tim promised he would do that, so we’ll see.

After our visit to the bike store, we walked across the street to Tre Rosat Cafe for a real nice lunch.  Here is a picture of the inside of this Cafe.

Deocr in Tre Rosat Cafe in downtown Silver City, NM.

Deocr in Tre Rosat Cafe in downtown Silver City, NM.

We had salads and pizza for lunch, with some good brews also, of course!  Our servers were the husband and wife owners of the Cafe, who were both incredibly nice.  But see for yourself!

Husband and wife owners of Tre Rosat Cafe, Silver City, NM.

Husband and wife owners of Tre Rosat Cafe, Silver City, NM.

She is a native of British Columbia and he was born in Oregon and they met in Southern California.  They’ve been together for six years and married for the last year and a half.  The atmosphere was cozy, the beers were great, and the food was delicious.  So if you’re ever in Silver City, I recommend you stop in for a bite!

After leaving downtown, we took a driving tour of Western New Mexico University, which is just a few blocks from downtown Silver City.  Then it was back to our hotel, which has a cactus garden right out front, which was too nice for me to pass up! 🙂

Cactus garden outside hotel in Silver City, NM.

Cactus garden outside hotel in Silver City, NM.

Beth, bless her heart,  is in the process of washing our dirty bike clothes, while Tim, Mark and I take naps and/or work on our homework, I mean blogs.  Yesterday I mentioned how sunburn Tim’s legs were getting, but it’s happening to all of us, even though we continue to slab on the sunscreen religiously each morning.

I think this is what they mean by biker's tan.

I think this is what they mean by biker’s tan.

We’re meeting at her room for our nightly ritual of Tim reading about the next day’s ride while we continue re-hydrating ourselves with some good ales!

We left Safford, AZ at about 7:45 a.m.  It was only 39 degrees but sure to warm up quickly so, for a change, I did not put on any extra layers and did not regret it.  Here is a video of us at we first started out.  Based on some comments about the videos, I tried to narrate them today, as much as I could.

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As usual, we made our first stop about an hour into the ride.  Here’s a shot of Tim at that rest stop, which was about 12 miles into the ride.  Notice the hat under his helmet and the long pants.  We have all gotten quite sunburned on our legs, so Tim kept those pants on the entire ride, even though it eventually warmed up to about 75 degrees today.

Tim at first rest stop along U.S. 70, 12 miles outside Safford, AZ.

Tim at first rest stop along U.S. 70, 12 miles outside Safford, AZ.

Our next stop was at a historical marker erected by members of the Church of the Latter Day Saints, in memory of two of their congregation who were killed by Indians who had stolen 45 of their horses.  Listen as Tim (yes, Tim, believe it or not!) reads from the words on the historical marker.

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Not too far from the marker, the vegetation seemed to change and the hills became grassy and similar in color to the hills of Kansas.  However, unlike the Kansas grasslands, there were trees and bushes and even some prickly pear cactus, as I show in this next picture, taken at our third stop of the day.

Purple (center) and green (right) prickly pear cactus plants at 3rd rest stop along U.S. 70.

Purple (center) and green (right) prickly pear cactus plants at 3rd rest stop along U.S. 70.

It was after this stop that the grassy nature appeared, as I tried to show and to discuss in this next video clip.

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We made it to Duncan and met up with Beth, who had passed us along U.S. 70 about 30-40 minutes before we got there.  We had a nice lunch in Old Jo’s Cafe, which seems to be the only place in town where people can eat out.  We got there just before church let out and the place filled up with locals, most of whom gave us the typical strange looks we get when garbed in our biking outfits, all except Beth, of course.  Here is a shot of Tim and Mark at Old Jo’s Cafe.

Tim and Mark at Old Jo's Cafe, Duncan, AZ.

Tim and Mark at Old Jo’s Cafe, Duncan, AZ.

After lunch, we had about 36 or so miles in front of us.  At this point we were blessed with a strong tailwind, that took us into Lordsburg, NM in just about 2 hours, even with one more stop.   You come upon the State of New Mexico, shortly after leaving Duncan, AZ and here is a picture of Tim under the Welcome to NM sign.

Tim under Welcome to NM! sign.

Tim under Welcome to NM! sign.

Here is a video clip I took in appreciation for the great tailwind and the newly paved surface of U.S. 70.

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We made it to Lordsburg at about 3 o’clock, a distance of about 78 miles including a climb of about 1500 feet. Were it not for the tailwind, this would have been a much more difficult ride.  Tim and Mark went for a swim in the hotel pool (they didn’t get enough exercise? go figure!) while I showered and took a nap.  At 5 o’clock we met up in Beth’s room at our Comfort Inn and Suites (our nicest hotel thus far), to drink some beer, eat some snacks, and listen to Tim read about our next day’s ride in “Conquering the Borderlands.”  At about 6 o’clock, we went to dinner at Kranberries, a family restaurant not too far from our hotel.  Here are a few pictures I took at dinner.  Beth is talking to Marcia (Tim’s wife) in this next picture.

Beth and Tim at Kranberries Restaurant, Lordsburg, NM

Beth and Tim at Kranberries Restaurant, Lordsburg, NM

Tim ordered liver and onions for dinner.  Nancy and I remember eating with Tim at a restaurant in Upper Darby by the name of O’Malley’s, and he would always order liver and onions for his meal.  I remember it being very pungent, so whenever the restaurant was out of that dish, Nancy and I were glad.  But just for old times’ sake, here is a picture of Tim’s meal for tonight.

Tim's Liver and Onion dinner in Kranberries Restaurant, Lordsburg, NM.

Tim’s Liver and Onion dinner in Kranberries Restaurant, Lordsburg, NM.

Tomorrow we ride to Silver City, NM.  It’s only about 50 miles but we’ll be climbing about 1700 feet from our current elevation in Lordsburg and about 3000 feet from our lowest elevation during tomorrow’s ride.  Hopefully we’ll have another tailwind!

Our ride started out under a pretty blue sky with Tim singing “Oh, what a beautiful morning, oh, what a beautiful day,” and I couldn’t get that darn tune out of my head for the rest of the day. I don’t know any other words to it, nor do I know the other melody line that it must contain. Enough about that. So I was stuck with that little ear worm all day. I did find 8 pennies along the way. In the middle of nowhere. See a penny, pick it up. It’s the first loose change I’ve found. I also saw 2 foxes crossing the desert highway, a couple of hawks in flight and some black vultures. No, they were not circling above me. (We see mostly Turkey Vultures in Pennsylvania.)

Mt. Graham again dominated our southern vista for many miles beyond Safford. I would like to go to the top of it someday. There is a lake near the top and the views from up there must be incredible. Irrigated fields of hay on both sides of the road prevailed until we climbed out of the Gila Valley. Dry desert scenery with distant mountain ranges to our north and south continued until a few miles west of Duncan, AZ, which is 40 miles from Safford. Then we began to see more grass and trees with prickly pear cactus interspersed. My camera batteries died and my cell phone was just about dead so I didn’t get as many picture as I would have liked.

Today we also got chased by some more dogs. About the same story as yesterday. They just don’t give it their all and it’s hardly worth getting excited about. All the big, mean dogs are tied up or uninterested in bicyclists. Beth got the big dog scare today. She was chased back into “Midnight Rider” by a Doberman. You go girl!

I am sure Tim and Brian will rave to you readers about today’s tailwind. What a joy it was to ride the final 37 miles after lunch with a 20 mph tailwind. We were going up a small incline for all 37 miles and we were flying. The roads in Arizona are very well paved. Once in New Mexico, the asphalt was noticeably rougher for the first 15 miles. But then we came upon a newly paved, smooth as glass surface all the way into Lordsburg. Phenomenal! It had to be the easiest 76 mile ride I have ever done.

Mt. Graham was visible for many miles again today.

Mt. Graham was visible for many miles again today.

Field plowed and ready to get growing.

Field plowed and ready to get growing.

Dry desert after the Gila Valley with Mt. Graham still in the distance.

Dry desert after the Gila Valley with Mt. Graham still in the distance.

No tailwind yet. We take breaks about every hour for 5 minutes. They really help keep us going.

No tailwind yet. We take breaks about every hour for 5 minutes. They really help keep us going.

Tim reading to us again.

Tim reading to us again.

We met John L. He was heading West on Rt.70., doing a long Sunday morning ride. We talked about our coast to coast, multi-year adventure. He told us the route we are taking is a good choice. There is another route to Silver City that has some really hard, hard climbs. As it is, we still will cross the continental divide twice. Once at around 6,000 feet tomorrow and again the next day above 8,000 feet.

We met John L. He was heading West on Rt.70., doing a long Sunday morning ride. We talked about our coast to coast, multi-year adventure. He told us the route we are taking is a good choice. There is another route to Silver City that has some really hard, hard climbs. As it is, we still will cross the continental divide twice. Once at around 6,000 feet tomorrow and again the next day above 8,000 feet.

The tailwind is coming. The tailwind is coming.

The tailwind is coming. The tailwind is coming.

I'm getting some weird tan lines again. This one is from my watch, gloves and long sleeves. You should see Tim's right calf. Beets look pale in comparison.

I’m getting some weird tan lines again. This one is from my watch, gloves and long sleeves. You should see Tim’s right calf. Beets look pale in comparison.

A great place to eat in Lordsburg. Lots of food and great prices.

A great place to eat in Lordsburg. Lots of food and great prices.

It was rough country for the settlers even in 1895.

It was rough country for the settlers even in 1895.

After a great night’s sleep we rolled out of the motel parking lot at our usual 7:40am. When we got out of Safford, it was so crystal clear that I was struck by the first (and only verse I know) of Oklahoma.  So I belted out: ‘O what a beautiful morning, o what a beautiful day…’  I’m sure you know the rest of that verse.  Little did I know that that song would reverberate in Mark’s head for the rest of the day. Sorry about that little buddy.

As in the past mornings, we started shedding layers after an hour or so. It struck all of us how little traffic there was this morning. It helped that it was Sunday for sure. We went for 5 minutes many times without seeing a car in either direction. It reminded me of some of the running scenes in ‘Forrest Gump’. At one point Mark and I quested how many miles ahead there was this bend in the rode we could see. It turned out to be 6 miles.

We met up with Beth in Duncan, AZ for lunch at Ol Joe’s Cafe which is mentioned in ‘Conquering the Borderlands’. They do listen to my reading every night. We also passed the entrance to Sandra Day O’Connor’s family ranch which is also mentioned in the book.

The highlight was the tailwind after lunch, hence the title of this post. It was nothing short of marvelous. (I won’t tell you what Mark said, Holly). That was the fastest 78 mile ride I have ever done. Way to go God. My prayers were answered today. Lets see what tomorrow brings.