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All posts for the month March, 2013

Wednesday March 6, 2013, 89 miles (143 km) – Total so far: 412 miles (664 km)
Hillsboro, NM to Las Cruces, NM

We are all getting tired. We have been working hard and sleeping poorly at these high elevations, and it is catching up with us. A rest day just did not fit in with the distance we needed to cover this year. The Black Range Lodge provided a breakfast of great coffee, French Toast on homemade bread, yogurt and scrambled eggs with peppers, onions, tomatoes and cheese, but since it was freshly prepared, we had to wait and did not get going until 8:30. Normally we are riding by 7:15 at the latest. Hillsboro, population 24, is remote. An old mining town, it once was home to 7,000. The Silver Panic of 1893 lowered the price of silver too much to make mining by individuals worthwhile and the exodus began. There are many ghost towns in the mountains around here. A few rugged individuals still prospect and mine the hillsides around the town. Apparently, a gold nugget can be worth thousands of dollars. Our route took us east to The Caballo Reservoir on the Rio Grande. We then turned south into the Mesilla Valley and followed the river Southeast for the rest of the day. We were parallel to I-25 and could see the interstate some of the time. We stopped for lunch in Hatch, chile capital of the world. We had the good luck to meet 6 loaded touring bicyclists going north. They warned about thorns and flat tires. Sure enough, we had to carefully remove many goat head thorns (picture to follow) after our next snack break. Las Cruces (city of crosses) is home to New Mexico State University. The big employers are White Sands Test Facility and White Sands Missile Range. The majestic Organ mountains dominate the eastern horizon. We finally arrived at our motel at 5:45. The sun was making it hard to see, and rush hour is never a good time to be on a bike. Tim’s daughter Mary greeted as we dismounted with her two children, Nala and Sabouma. She drove from Albuquerque. We ate dinner in Mesilla, an old Mexican town now apart of Las Cruces, at La Posta. It was a stop on the Butterfield Stagecoach line in the 19th Century.

The Black Range Lodge

The Black Range Lodge

We have been seeing this same desert scenery for many of our rides.

We have been seeing this same desert scenery for many of our rides.

We have been seeing this same desert scenery for many of our rides.

Goat head thorns.

Goat head thorns. They will work their way right through a bicycle tire and cause a flat. Very sharp and hard to remove because they get stuck in your fingers when you pull them off the tire.

The mighty Rio Grande. All of the water is used for irrigation. We crossed it two more times and it was almost dried up at the final crossing.

The mighty Rio Grande. All of the water is used for irrigation. We crossed it two more times and it was almost dried up at the final crossing.

Miles and miles of Pecan orchards lead the way into Las Cruces.

Miles and miles of pecan orchards lead the way into Las Cruces.

The majestic Organ Mountains.

The majestic Organ Mountains.

The majestic Organ Mountains.

White Sands is an hour away. This picture is from a previous visit.

There is one word that would describe today–LONG. You forget how far 90 miles on a bike is when you are doing this much cycling. Fortunately the weather was excellent. Our trend continues, cool in the morning and warm in the afternoon. In fact it was in the 70’s this afternoon.

The shift in terrain was probably the most dramatic of any day. We started in the mountains. Then dropped down into dessert-like terrain. Then into irrigated agriculture and finished in suburbs. I haven’t seen downtown Las Cruces. Maybe we are in it.

It was great to be greeted at the door to the hotel by Mary, Nalla and Souk and of course Beth. They finally figured out why Brian’s GPS tracking device wasn’t working this afternoon. I assume that was how Beth knew exactly when we would arrive. I am sure Beth wishes she had figured that out sooner. One more day: Las Cruces to El Paso. Supposed to be about 56 miles and flat.

What a day. It was our coldest start yet, but as usual, we started shedding our extra layers at each stop. For some reason we made good time despite all the climbing. I guess we all had extra nervous energy stored up for today. We all seemed to have a mindset that we didn’t want to hit any downhills. We earned that elevation and we didn’t want to give it back. The only consolation to a downhill was the distance we were covering when we did get a coast.

The road you take to go over Emory Pass has almost no traffic. It seems that most people avoid it because the driving time is increased with all the switch backs. You are in the Gila (pronounced ‘HELA’) National Forest for most of the ride. The scenery was the best yet. The air in the Natl For smelled so crystal clear. You felt like you we’re breathing some of the cleanest air on the planet. Beth caught up to us at the perfect moment, about 5 miles from the summit. I was out of water and snacks and Brian and Mark were pretty low.

When we reached the summit, we rode another 150 yards to get to the vista. I highly recommend stopping to check it out. You can see for 30 miles on a clear day. We could easily see the town of Kingston where we were stopping.

Then the scary part starts–the descent. We all had both hands on our brake levers and took one break just to rest our hands. A little tricky when cars had to get around us. Thankfully it was minimal on the switchback portion of the descent.

The destination was the Black Range Lodge where we cooked dinner for ourselves and the proprietors. Or should I say Brian and Beth cooked dinner. Mark and I did the dishes. Then we played pool (Mark and I against Beth and Brian). I bet that doesn’t make it into Beth’s blog. Absolutely our most exhilarating day of biking since we started in San Diego.

We have been very apprehensive about climbing over the mountains at 8259 feet at Emory Pass ever since we mapped this ride last summer. It’s been said before that worry is a waste of imagination. How true it is because this section was beyond description. Yes, it is hard to do more than 4,000 feet of climbing, all of it at 5,000 feet or higher. I don’t have enough synonyms for beautiful and spectacular to describe the natural beauty in this part of New Mexico so I will post the pictures we took and hope you can appreciate what we saw. The smell of the pine forest and the lack of machine noise (except a slowly passing car once in a while) made this a ride I would do again if I could.

A few miles from Silver City. This might be The Twin Sisters.

A few miles from Silver City. This might be The Twin Sisters.

Another huge strip mine on Rt. 152

Another huge strip mine on Rt. 152

The views are getting better as we go higher.

The views are getting better as we go higher.

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We are in a canyon here. After climbing above 7,000 feet we came back down to 6,000 and then made our way up to 8,200 at Emory Pass.

We are in a canyon here. After climbing above 7,000 feet we came back down to 6,000 and then made our way up to 8,200 at Emory Pass.

There is a woodpecker in this picture.

There is a woodpecker in this picture.

We made it to the top. We were very happy and proud of ourselves. From here it is 6 miles down to Hillsboro.

We made it to the top. We were very happy and proud of ourselves. From here it is 6 miles down to Hillsboro.

Emory Pass vista is a few hundred feet off the main road.

Emory Pass vista is a few hundred feet off the main road.

It was a perfect clear day. Temperature around 50 degrees.

It was a perfect clear day. Temperature around 50 degrees.

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Day 5 had some fun parts and some less fun parts. I think my dad’s grumpiness rubbed off on me a little.

Highlights: 

  • Working out in the Comfort Inn. I have very little self control when it comes to salty snacks (I have been known to finish a large bag of tour-till-ah chips by myself in one sitting) and need to offset all the chips, Triscuits, and beer. Even though we’ve stayed at brand name places throughout L2, this was the first place to have a gym.
  • Lunch at Tre Rosat Cafe. Great pizza and good moods all around. On the bottles of the Mirror Pond Pale Ale some of us had, it said, “If you could only listen to one album for the rest of your life, what would it be?” Mark said Revolver. I said Third/Sister Lovers. But on reflection it would probably make me feel crazy after a while. I guess anything would, though, so maybe an album that’s already a little crazy is the best choice. I also tried to tell Mark to give Sinatra a chance by listening to In the Wee Small Hours but I know you won’t, Mark. That’s okay.
  • Doing laundry. I got to feel domestic, and everybody likes having clean clothes.
Mimicking Mark's bathroom self-portrait in Tre Rosat

Mimicking Mark’s bathroom self-portrait in Tre Rosat — I think I did pretty well copying his wide-eyed expression

Whiny lowlights: 

  • Another minivan on Midnight Rider’s tail for most of the drive. (It was white; maybe it was the Betrayed Ghost of Great White.) It’d be cool if cars had the ability to post messages in their rear window for the car behind them. It would be in the form of a voice-controlled LED sign. My sign would have said, “DUDE, JUST PASS ME.” This is a great invention but I’m sure it would result in more road rage deaths so maybe it’s not actually that great.
  • A cold interaction at the Holiday Inn check-in. The woman was professional but impersonal. I asked her for a dinner recommendation and she told me where I could find a list — which is fine, and yes, I could have pressed and said, “But what restaurants do you like?” I just didn’t like her fake-friendly tone. She made me feel fake welcome. She also put me in Room 223, and I hate numbers that are one off from being all the same digit. Also the handle on my room’s door was attached upside down. I forget that the backwardness only applies to the door and keep trying to flush the toilet by pushing the handle up.
  • Dinner at Wendy’s. It’s more important for the guys to get rest than to experience the city, and the Wendy’s was near the hotel. As SAG driver you sometimes need to take one for the team.
  • Mild anxiety about not getting any work done. I told someone I would finish their project this week and don’t think it’s going to happen. Sorry, NR!
The sun rises over Lordsburg

The sun rises over Lordsburg

Bye, boys

No time for posing today

Rural route mailboxes where I stopped to refuel the guys

Rural route mailboxes where I stopped to refuel the guys

Testing out the new bike seat

Testing out the new bike seat

Hotel Art of the Day

Shapes and hatch marks  on rustic blocks of color 48"x24" Holiday Inn Express, Silver City, NM

Shapes and hatch marks on rustic blocks of color
~48″x28″
Holiday Inn Express, Silver City, NM

Hotel Art Score

5/10. This is similar in tone to yesterday’s piece. I did a little research, and of course art specifically for hotels is a real thing. There are a bunch of sources, but this place has the best website. You can search for art by what colors it has so that you can best match it to the room. This particular piece would be categorized as Abstract (don’t bother looking for it, though — I just did and it isn’t there, though similar pieces are).

Art Art Score

3/10. If the artist told me this represents how he feels inside or some other concept he feels is important, I’d be like, “Okay, this is kind of a lame and ineffective expression of that, but who I am to judge.” It’s the cynical “I’m going to make money with some hotel art” thing done with just a touch more gusto. But let’s be clear: it’s still bad.

Now the fun starts. Today was the first of our two days of climbing. It’s not that the hills are insanely steep it’s just that they are so long. We have hills this steep in PA, but they don’t go on for miles on end. Our first hill today was about 12 miles. Not excessively steep, just looooonnnnngggggg.

As the day went on, the wind increased and became a stiff cross wind. It was so strong at times that it felt like it was going to blow you and your bike off the rode. When the wind is blowing that hard it feels safer to be going at slower speeds. When we had descents, we all rode our brakes to keep our speeds down. We all agreed that biking today with the cross wind was scarier than the tunnel. I hope this doesn’t freak you out Mar.

Mark was his entertaining self today. I can’t believe Brian posted that video. We needed the laughs to take our minds off our quads. I am confident we will get thru tomorrow. It should be the most challenging day of the trip. We have to get over Emory Pass which is 8228. I think I read somewhere that we will climb 4000 feet tomorrow. Hey if this was easy, everyone would be doing it. Well, maybe not everyone.

The requisite "Goodbye,  Mom" shot, Safford, AZ

The requisite “Bye, Mom” shot, Safford, AZ

Day 4: Safford, Arizona to Lordsburg, New Mexico. I got to cross a new state off my list today!

This was a wonderful drive. No one else was on the road, the mountains were romantically misty in the distance, and the weather was just beautiful. I truly felt that I owned the road, the land, the sky, everything — it seemed to be there just for me. It was a little like being in a car commercial.

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Taken while driving 65 mph because I could see for miles and no one was around

We planned to stop in Duncan, the only town “with services” between Safford and Lordsburg, for lunch. I beat the guys there, so I drove around a little bit to get a feel for it. I felt like an intruder, though. A guy on a motorcycle gave me a curious look, and I kept passing by the same two men in cowboy hats, feeling conspicuous and out of place. At least Midnight Rider has Arizona plates.

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I would like to believe that it’s still 1908 inside this bank

I saw a sign that read VETERANS MEMORIAL (JET PLANE), so I followed the arrow and drove up a big hill to check it out. Here is the memorial:

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VETERANS MEMORIAL (JET PLANE)

Pretty cool, isn’t it? Something you might like to see close up and read about, right? Me, too. Except, see that wooden fence in the background? There’s a Doberman behind that fence.

As I walked toward the plane, the Doberman popped out from behind the fence, hopped excitedly like in a Warner Bros. cartoon (in my memory he licks his lips), and began giving chase. I didn’t even have time to think “holy shit” — I just turned around and ran girlishly in my dumb sandals all the way back to MR. Luckily (seriously, luckily) I had a good head start. I turned around when I got back to the van and saw that he’d paused, apparently deciding I was no longer worth his time. But no way was I going to attempt to read about that memorial again. I should have taken a picture of the dog, but I was too spooked.

Not willing to attempt to do anything else in Duncan without backup, I parked MR in a playground and waited. The boys showed up soon after, and we had a surprisingly tasty lunch at Ol’ Jo’s Cafe. You think you can only get good food in New York and then the rest of America surprises you. All of our meals were made by a single wiry. hard-working woman in the kitchen, and Ol’ Jo’s was packed by the time we left. I hope you left a good tip, Dad.

Tim and Mark compare notes on Google's distance projections. All our phones said slightly different things.

Tim and Mark compare notes on Google’s distance projections. All of our phones said slightly different things.

The drive from Duncan to Lordsburg was equally empty of other cars and just as fun as the morning. It was marvelous in the true meaning of the word.

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In the Land of Enchantment at last

Hotel Art of the Day

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Enigmatic illustrations against rustic colored blocks
~ 30″x30″
Comfort Inn and Suites, Lordsburg, NM

Hotel Art Score

5/10. If you don’t look too closely, the colors add some warmth and “interest” to the room. Maybe it’s supposed to represent the exoticism of exploring new vistas? I have no idea.

Art Art Score

2/10.  What is going on here? You can’t see it, but there are blurry bits of Latin text in spots. It’s like someone tried to imagine what a bad scrapbook by Leonardo da Vinci would look like if he had lived in the 2000s. It seems like it was a not-unpleasant design assignment, and it certainly required some skill to execute, but if even if the artist told me that s/he was really inspired to make this, I would have a hard time believing it. I think cynical forces are at play again.

Today I learned why Laura is so afraid of wind. We had 30 mph crosswinds during some long descents. I was nearly knocked me off my bike multiple times. I was more stressed riding the last leg of 10 miles into Silver City than I was in the Queen Creek Tunnel.

Tim started us off by singing “Monday, Monday” by the Mamas and Papas. Much better. I pulled it up on my iTunes and played on our first break.

We knew there would be some climbing today. For the first portion out of Lordsburg, we had a moderate steady incline. No downhill portions at all but that was alright because it wasn’t too steep. We hit the Continental Divide (6348 feet) about 25 miles from the start. We thought it would be a nice easy ride the rest of the way because Silver City is at an elevation of about 5900 feet. But unfortunately, the wind picked up and we had many steep drops and climbs the rest of the way.

Silver City is bigger than I imagined but nicer, too. The historic section has a hip vibe and some newer restaurants and shops. The main drag has big store like Albertson’s and Wal-Mart, etc. Western New Mexico University is here. It must help drive the local economy.

I took lots of pictures and even some videos today.

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Early morning sky looking back towards Lordsburg at 7:30 this morning

Early morning sky looking back towards Lordsburg at 7:30 this morning

Slowly climbing from the start

Slowly climbing from the start

The vegetation begins to change as get higher

The vegetation begins to change as get higher

The sky is amazing out here.

The sky is amazing out here.

Within minutes the pine forest began. There is a hawk in center of the tree, just sitting on a branch.

Within minutes the pine forest began. There is a hawk in center of the tree, just sitting on a branch.

It was a great feeling when we reached this high point

It was a great feeling when we reached this high point

Tyrone strip mining project. This was around where the crosswinds became dangerous.

Tyrone strip mining project. This was around where the crosswinds became dangerous.

Our last snack break. We had to find places out of the wind to eat and rest.

Our last snack break. We had to find places out of the wind to eat and rest.

A wonderful restroom in tre Rosat Cafe where we had the best pizza ever.

A wonderful restroom in tre Rosat Cafe where we had the best pizza ever.

We left our nice hotel in Lordsburg, NM just after 7 a.m. in the morning, and made our way back the way we had come the previous afternoon, using U.S. 70 West until it hit N.M. 90.  Along the way, we passed our first Border Patrol Station, which I had not noticed yesterday.  Once on N.M. 90, it was a long, long climb with no help at all from the wind.  And after having ridden for 4 straight days, I was not a happy camper to have to immediately start climbing.  But after our second rest stop, Mark cheered me up.  Check out this video to find out why! 🙂

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A little later, we came upon a historical marker, which seem to just suck Tim in so that he can read them.  So here is a clip of Tim reading to his apparently illiterate brothers! 🙂

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Our next major event was when we reached the Continental Divide, at an elevation of 6,335 feet, meaning we had climbed almost 2,500 feet.  Here is a short video I took when I made it to the Continental Divide.

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By the time of our next stop, the vegetation along NM 90 was way different from what it was at the junction of NM 90 with U.S. 70, all the way back in Lordsburg.  The terrain is again “Kansas grassy” with some evergreen trees popping out of the ground, and lots of cactus plants mingled in also.  Here is a picture of the fields along NM 90 about 20 miles west of Silver City.

Tim, trees and cacti along NM 90, 20 miles outside of Silver City, NM.

Tim, trees and cacti along NM 90, 20 miles outside of Silver City, NM.

We made it to Silver City and our hotel shortly after 1 p.m. for our earliest arrival time yet.  Still, it took us 6 hours to ride all of about 49 miles and climb 2,500 feet.  Silver City is at an elevation of 5,938 feet, so we ended up about 400 feet lower than our highest point at the Continental Divide.  But for me, this was the hardest day so far on L2.

After showering and changing, Beth drove us into the downtown area of Silver City.  We visited Twin Sister bike store, where I purchased a better rear view mirror for my helmet, a better pair of sunglasses, and a new seat for my bike (at the insistence of Tim, Mark and Beth).  Tim and Mark both feel I expend too much energy standing and pedaling to help save my sore butt.  Hope it’s not too difficult to install on my bike – Tim promised he would do that, so we’ll see.

After our visit to the bike store, we walked across the street to Tre Rosat Cafe for a real nice lunch.  Here is a picture of the inside of this Cafe.

Deocr in Tre Rosat Cafe in downtown Silver City, NM.

Deocr in Tre Rosat Cafe in downtown Silver City, NM.

We had salads and pizza for lunch, with some good brews also, of course!  Our servers were the husband and wife owners of the Cafe, who were both incredibly nice.  But see for yourself!

Husband and wife owners of Tre Rosat Cafe, Silver City, NM.

Husband and wife owners of Tre Rosat Cafe, Silver City, NM.

She is a native of British Columbia and he was born in Oregon and they met in Southern California.  They’ve been together for six years and married for the last year and a half.  The atmosphere was cozy, the beers were great, and the food was delicious.  So if you’re ever in Silver City, I recommend you stop in for a bite!

After leaving downtown, we took a driving tour of Western New Mexico University, which is just a few blocks from downtown Silver City.  Then it was back to our hotel, which has a cactus garden right out front, which was too nice for me to pass up! 🙂

Cactus garden outside hotel in Silver City, NM.

Cactus garden outside hotel in Silver City, NM.

Beth, bless her heart,  is in the process of washing our dirty bike clothes, while Tim, Mark and I take naps and/or work on our homework, I mean blogs.  Yesterday I mentioned how sunburn Tim’s legs were getting, but it’s happening to all of us, even though we continue to slab on the sunscreen religiously each morning.

I think this is what they mean by biker's tan.

I think this is what they mean by biker’s tan.

We’re meeting at her room for our nightly ritual of Tim reading about the next day’s ride while we continue re-hydrating ourselves with some good ales!