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All posts for the month March, 2016

Thursday March 3, 2016, 68 miles (109 km) – Total so far: 490 miles (789 km)

After Texas, Florida is my second favorite state on the Southern Tier route. It has surprised all of us with its variety of scenery, from white sand beaches on the Gulf, to the rolling hills and farmland and its many pine forests and swamps with hanging Spanish moss. Its cities seem friendly and the roads are by far the best. This state seems to be the only state of the Southern Tier that consciously plans its roads with bicyclists in mind. The weather this week has been fantastic and the wind has been favorable almost everyday. Again today we had a bike lane for most of the ride. We also enjoyed riding a great bike trail which runs from Melrose almost to Palatka. It was fun to be able to ride 4 abreast and talk together. The only reason I like Texas more (and I’m really thinking about West Texas here) is because of the mostly empty roads and vast countryside and also the restored old railroad hotels that I would go visit again such as The El Capitain in Van Horn and the Gage Hotel in Marathon and the unique cities like Marfa and Austin and San Antonio. High Springs, FL reminded me of those places; a little town with its own identity and culture.

Today was a flat, quick ride. Gainesville was trafficy but the bike lane kept us out of harm’s way and we soon left it behind to enjoy more farmland and pine forest or swamp scenery. Matt likes riding in front and we ‘had his back’ all day. We are averaging over 15 mph every day. It feels good to finish our day’s ride before 3 and then have a few beers before dinner. Today we sat by the outside pool in the warm but breezy air. We even iced our sore bodies in the frigid pool water. We stopped for lunch in a Subway. Another flat was repaired effortlessly by Matt who is a great bike mechanic.

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45 and cloudy when we left but later it was mostly sunny and 75. This was our first rest stop about 15 miles East of High Springs.

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Group selfie on the bike path. Sorry Matt, I missed you.

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Men at work.

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Our high for the day was riding together without traffic.

Marianna to Tallahassee
Monday, February 29

Now that I’m a hotel veteran, my quality of sleep usually has little to do with the place — unless the pillows are especially puffy (Does anyone like puffy pillows? What is wrong with you, if so?) — and mainly to do with my state of mind. But I’ve noticed that I generally prefer rooms with the window on my left (mimicking my own bedroom’s layout) or, even better, facing me. At the Fairfield Inn in Marianna, an okay but entirely forgettable hotel, the window was on my right. Everything just feels a little wrong when the window is on the right. I woke up at 4 a.m., noted that everything felt wrong, violated my “don’t check your phone” rule, then fell asleep for two more hours.

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Mark’s bright headlight helps keep everybody safe

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Hotel hallway shot of the day

My first order of business after checking out of the Fairfield Inn was to head to Walmart to pick up supplies. It was a beautiful, warm day; I felt very happy and floaty while I was in the store, like I was gliding instead of walking. The older woman manning the self check-out (or rather womanning it) chatted with me about the nice weather and said she wanted to run barefoot through a field of clover. It took me a few seconds to understand what she’d said because a) it was an unusual thing to say and b) her southern accent was very strong. “You should!” I told her. Good luck finding a field of clover in Marianna, Florida.

It’s nice, on a road trip, to be able to mix music with someone talking to you. On Monday’s drive I listened to a recording Andy made of a chapter from A Dance to the Music of Time, which is very British and engrossing. And long. We’re on volume three of twelve.

Our lodging for Monday night was Tallahassee’s Home2 Suites by Hilton, a brand new hotel and a pretty brand new brand, as far as I can tell. It’s a competitor in the extended stay market, and it’s nice. It feels like it was conceived in this century, which ironically means it has a lot of midcentury modern design touches. I was particularly pleased to see recycling bins in the rooms; one of my biggest frustrations about hotels is that it’s impossible to know whether they recycle. I always assume they don’t and just carry a constant mild guilt.

I was also pleased to find that the room had a full-sized fridge. I’d been worrying that the beer I’d bought in Marianna would, by Tallahassee, be too warm for Tim, but when I walked in and saw the freezer, I thought, “Jackpot.” The beer would be chilled to perfection.

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The rooms in Home2 Suites all look something like this

The guys didn’t have an especially long ride that day, and I hadn’t been in the room long before they arrived. While everyone else took a nap Dad and I headed downtown for some tourism. On my trip in the fall I passed through many state capitals, but I regrettably only made it to a couple of capitol buildings. I am a fan of capitol buildings; I feel like their atmosphere can’t help but influence the tenor of the proceedings within them, and seeing them gives me an illusion of insight into what it feels like to be an active part of our democracy.

The Florida Capitol building is an ugly Brutalist Lite structure from 1977, reminiscent of the reviled Verizon building in Manhattan, except with dolphins.

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Dad and dolphins, Florida Capitol

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It ain’t pretty, but it’s theirs

We peered into the disappointingly drab Senate chambers, then headed up to the main attraction, the wraparound observatory on the 22nd floor.

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View of Tallahassee from the observatory

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Dad

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I found it an appealingly cold space

The Museum of Florida History was open for another fifteen minutes, so we headed over and walked through it briskly, exiting seven minutes before it closed. I think a broke a personal record for least time spent in a museum.

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Early ads for citrus, from the Museum of Florida History

For dinner we walked across the hotel parking lot to Blaze Pizza, which is essentially pizza-based Chipotle. It was pretty good! I would definitely Blaze again.

Hotel Art of the Day

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Photographic print
Fairfield Inn and Suites, Marianna, FL

Hotel Art Score

4/10. This makes me wonder how much money there is to be had in the hotel art business. I could make something like this out of my Instagrams and would gladly sell it to the hotel market. This piece isn’t someone’s personal work, I’m almost certain, but a melange of stock photos. I could do that, too! And I’d do a better job of it.

As a hotel art experience, it’s whatever. The main thing it has going for it is that it’s colorful.

Art Art Score

1/10? 2? I don’t know how to rate anything anymore. I’m looking at every individual shot and going, “Okay, okay, uh huh.” It’s like a game of Memory. I’ve got these down and am ready to go. But what does it all mean? Life is a marvel? Life is a meaningless array of patterns? Here are a few pictures I found on Getty?

Today was a tale of two rides in a bunch of ways. Yesterday, we rode into High Springs from the north. There were opulent ranches and beautiful farms on a nice two lane rural road right up to the outskirts of town. After a wonderful breakfast at the B&B, we started riding east and left town. We immediately hit a four lane highway with a small shoulder polluted by gravel and debris. Traffic was whipping by, we were riding past ramshackle businesses and run down trailer homes, and traffic was heavy so the cars were rarely giving us more than a couple feet to spare. Not very enjoyable. Maybe 10 miles into the ride, we turned off the highway and started riding on beautiful country roads past amazing horse farms and cattle ranches.

As we came to our first stop right in between a couple of these ranches, I realized that this part of Florida is really the land of the haves and have-nots. The beginning part of the ride didn’t pass very many homes, if any, that you’d call middle class. It was either dirt poor or well to do, and often a very stark transition between the two. Very interesting.

It started out cold today (high 40s) but we ended the day sweating in the mid to high 70s and all went swimming in the hotel pool. We also had our first real headwind this leg , and it was mentally tough to push through. I was on the front for most of the day but really ran out of steam against the wind coming into Melrose. I really thought the last 30 miles were going to be miserable. We pulled into Subway for lunch, and I have to admit that I wasn’t excited about that at all. But I had a fantastic grilled melt sand which and felt totally rejuvenated. Maybe 10 miles later In Putnam we picked up a bike trail that ran for 15 miles and was the highlight of the trip for me. We rode the next hour side by side coming up with trivia questions and the miles flew by.

I got one last (I’m willing this to be true) flat tire on the trail but figured out the problem (shifted rim tape) and we’ve hopefully put the bad tire karma behind us. Tomorrow is a short jaunt into St. Augustine and it must be bittersweet for the brothers. I know that I’m incredibly proud of my dad, Mark and Brian for this unbelievable accomplishment and am flattered to have gotten to take part in these last two legs. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

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The Grady House B&B. Who would’ve guessed it’d have such a racy side!

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Our first stop along the road in between two ranches.

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My beloved bike path!

We left the Grady House B&B a little after 8 a.m. after eating a big and delicious breakfast.  We were uncertain whether to take the 85 mile ACA route or the shorter 67 mile route mapped by Google bike maps and agreed that we’d make that decision once we got to Gainesville.  But our tired legs after a 76 mile ride yesterday made the decision for us, and so the shorter 67 mile route was what we did.  We made good time today and only stopped about four times, not counting the break we took while Matt changed another flat tire.  Here are a few photos I took today.

Live Oaks at our first rest stop of the day, about 12 miles outside High Springs.

Live Oaks at our first rest stop of the day, about 12 miles outside High Springs.

Beefcake shot of Tim at our 2nd rest stop outside Gainesville.

Beefcake shot of Tim at our 2nd rest stop outside Gainesville, where we shed some layers to help keep cool.

Sit-down lunch at Subway in Melrose. This was the only time this leg that we stopped for lunch at a fast food restaurant.

Sit-down lunch at Subway in Melrose. This was the only time this leg that we stopped for lunch at a fast food restaurant.

Mark on dedicated bike trail parallel to Rt 100 about 10 miles outside Palatka.

Mark on dedicated bike trail parallel to Rt 100 about 10 miles outside Palatka. Away from road traffic, we finally had a chance to play some trivia, inluding famous quotes, unsuccessful U.S. Vice-Presidential candidates, and more baseball trivia.

After making it to our Holiday Inn Express, we all went to the pool for a quick and cold dip, enjoying some cold beers that Beth had picked up for us on her way to the hotel.  For dinner we did Italian, the first time this leg we ate at an Italian restaurant and it was good.  Back at the hotel, Tim read aloud the last chapter of “Crossing the Borderlands,” after which we retired for the night.

It’s hard to believe there is only one more day of riding, but tomorrow our ride is to St. Augustine and the Atlantic Ocean, the end of the Southern Route across the United States.

Wednesday March 2, 2016, 74 miles (119 km) – Total so far: 422 miles (680 km)

It’s after midnight now, and I fell asleep right after dinner only to awaken when the clock radio alarm went off at 12 o’clock and now I can’t fall back asleep so I will catch up with my blog post. Today was another perfect riding day made even better with a 10 to 15 mph tailwind. It makes you feel awesome to ride easily along at 17 or 18 mph without really pushing. It’s still hard work to be on a bike for 7 or 8 hours but with a tailwind it sure eases some of the discomfort. We had 3 flats today. I had one in the first 10 miles, then Brian had a slow leak, but he was able to keep pumping up his tire to finish the ride while Matt had a flat 5 miles from the end. We had to go to a bike store in High Springs for spare tubes and I got a new tire. I fell for the first time while riding on a sandy sidewalk through some road construction. It made a terrible loud crashing noise but I was only going a few mph and only skinned my knee and bruised my ego. But I got right back up and road on “fearless”. We again used Google bike directions instead of Adventure Cycling and saved about 10 miles. We rode 90 until Lake City and then rode on 41 until about 8 miles from High Springs, where we rejoined the ACA route. We are in a B&B called The Grady House. They have had other cyclists stay here in the past.

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The first cloudy day but after lunch the sunshine returned.

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Roadside wild flower.

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A downtown park in Live Oak.

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Wall mural.

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The bike store in High Springs.

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This is the best I could do for your “beef cake” pic. This is in the lovely gardens at The Grady House.

We walked a few blocks to dinner at “The Great Outdoors ” and enjoyed food and drinks and live music.

p.s. Nancy, if you are still reading this post I hope you realize that I titled it especially for you! Now go and Live Fearless, my beloved.

It was a great day for riding, with temperatures in the 60’s and 70’s for almost the entire ride, and almost no hills at all.  The sun came out after a few hours, which only warmed things up a little. We mostly finished wearing everything we started out with, so there were no beefcake shots today – sorry girls! 🙂  Mark had a fall in Lake City, where there was construction on US 90 close to its intersection with I10.  And we did had several flat tires today – Tim was the only one of us who did not have a flat.  But other than that, it was a near perfect day for bike riding.  Here are some photos from the ride.

Tim and Matt on a bench in Memorial Park at Live Oak, FL.

Tim and Matt on a bench in Memorial Park at Live Oak, FL.

Memorial Park in Live Oak, FL, where we stopped for our first break.

Memorial Park in Live Oak, FL, where we stopped for our first break.

Bikes resting along far wall of Memorial Park Live Oak, FL.

Bikes resting along far wall of Memorial Park Live Oak, FL.  An old Wrigley’s Spearmint Gum ad is pained on the wall.

Court House in Live Oak, FL.

Court House in Live Oak, FL.

Wooded area at our next to the last stop of the day, just before Lake City, FL.

Wooded area at our next to the last stop of the day, just before Lake City, FL.

Meadow across US 90 at our next to the last stop of the day, just before Lake City, FL.

Meadow across US 90 at our next to the last stop of the day, just before Lake City, FL.

Ranch house at our last stop of the day, 18 miles outside of High Springs, FL. Beth had caught up to us at this rest stop.

Ranch house at our last stop of the day, 18 miles outside of High Springs, FL. Beth had caught up to us at this rest stop.

Bill W at about 6 miles outside of High Springs, FL. We were changing flats at the bottom of his driveway, and he came out to talk to us.

Bill W at about 6 miles outside of High Springs, FL. We were changing flats at the bottom of his driveway, and he came out to talk to us.

We made it to our lodging for the night at around 2:45 pm, received a tour of the property from Paul Regensdorf, the owner, and proceeded to change our tires and tubes to hopefully prevent any additional flats tomorrow.  We walked back into town to purchase an additional tire for Mark’s bike and spare tubes for Tim and my bike, and Matt also purchased a tube patch kit for a wopping $2.  We checked out the restaurant we had a reservation for, then walked back to shower and change for dinner.  Here are some photos of the Grady House B&B, a really nice place to stay if you ever find yourself in High Springs, FL.

Front Porch ar the Grady House B&B High Springs FL.

Front Porch ar the Grady House B&B High Springs FL.

Dining Room at the Grady House B&B High Springs FL. I think that's where we will be eating breakfast tomorrow morning.

Dining Room at the Grady House B&B High Springs FL. I think that’s where we will be eating breakfast tomorrow morning.

Staircase at the Grady House B&B High Springs FL

Staircase at the Grady House B&B High Springs FL.

Photo of the duvet in the sitting room attached to my bedroom at the Grady House B&B.

Photo of the duvet in the sitting room attached to my bedroom at the Grady House B&B.

My bedroom at the Grady House B&B. Its called the Navy room for the blue decor.

My bedroom at the Grady House B&B. Its called the Navy room for the blue decor.

Dinner at the Great Outdoors Restaurant in downtown High Springs was excellent.  The beer, the food and the live country music band were a great way to end our day.  Photos of my side garden salad and my entree (Tennessee Tenderloin) close out my blog for tonight!

Side order garden salad at the Great Outdoors Restaurant High Springs FL

Side order garden salad at the Great Outdoors Restaurant High Springs FL

Tennessee Tenderloin entree at the Great Outdoors Restaurant in High Springs, FL. It was bigger than this - I didn't take the picture until after several bites of the steak.

Tennessee Tenderloin entree at the Great Outdoors Restaurant in High Springs, FL. It was bigger than this – I didn’t take the picture until after several bites of the steak.

Tomorrow’s ride is either 66 or 85 miles, depending on the route and the wind direction.  Stay tuned! Good night!

 

 

The rooms at the Best Western were definitely not as nice as the plush Home2Suites in Tallahassee, but the breakfast this morning was great! I was starving by the end of the day yesterday, so I filled up on eggs, biscuits, sausage and gravy this morning…plus a yogurt. I was stuffed but knew that we had a long day of 75mi plus to get through. The hotel was right on a frontage road that parralleled I-10, so our first 5 miles or so was along that nearly traffic-less road and we got to ride 2×2 which was a nice change.

One we got back to US90, we were again riding a busier road, but it had a descent shoulder. Mark was the first flat tire casualty (do you sense the foreshadowing?), but it was quickly repaired and we were riding again in no time. The scenery today was pretty bland and much more dry and dusty than yesterday, but we did have about 60 miles of tailwind which was awesome!

After a roadside lunch, Brian noticed a slow leak in his tire and we stopped several times the rest of the way to pump it back up. I was the last to flat and it happened with less than 10 miles to go. It was mysterious since it is a brand new tire and had no visible damage. I put in a new tube and made it to the B&B where it promptly went flat again. So, only my dad escaped the flat tire curse today. We chatted with the guy whose driveway we were sitting in as I fixed my tire, but I’m sure Brian will fill you in on that.

After checking in, we all did a bit of bike maintenance in the courtyard garden over beer and chips and then walked over to the bike shop in town to resupply. High Springs is a great little town that kind of seems to be just waking up from the 60s. Tonight we had dinner at a wonderful restaurant with outdoor seating and, Mark’s favorite, country music. Ok, MAYBE, not his favorite. But it’s mine, and the hot wings were hot, and the ribs were great. Happy happy happy. We were surrounded by tons of young families with little kids, all enjoying the night out. It’s hard not to wonder what life would be like raising kids in such a slower paced place.

Last piece of entertainment, but I’ll have to leave most of it to your imagination. The B&B where we’re staying has somewhat themed rooms. Beth assigned them with help from the owner. The proprietor described my dads as ‘testosterone challenged’ and mine as the ‘romance room.’ Perfect. He also took one look at me and asked Beth, “Who is the young guy?” My new BFF. The walls of my room are covered in interesting photos. Below is the ONLY one safe to share online, and it’s appropriately themed!

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Our first rest stop. A train came by a short time after we left!

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We found a nice park for our stop in Live Oak, and it had plenty of benches…but no bathroom. They’re not peeing, I promise.

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The shade was welcome since today got pretty warm. Again, not peeing, I promise.

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Yep. This is the safe one. Oh my.

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Now I see why they have this as the pre-bedtime routine!

I really don’t want to jinx myself butttttt…everyone else had a flat today. I doubt it was anything special I did to avoid a flat. We all methodically check both tires after each break. I did pick off a half dozen burrs from my front tire at one point today.

The ride was pretty flat and partially aided by a tail wind. We averaged over 15 mph for the day, our fastest yet. Total mileage today was 76.2. Very pleasant riding with the exception of Lake City. It was much busier traffic wise than we are used to. I10 and I75 intersect in this town which probably explains the increase in traffic and US 90 was undergoing some construction. In retrospect, I wish we had picked a different route to bypass Lake City.

We spent some time at dinner thinking about our next adventure. Lots of suggestions: Pacific Coast from Seattle to San Diego, bike across PA from Erie to Philly, C&O canal from Pittsburgh to DC and Potomac River from Alexandria to the Chesapeake and back. Someone threw out Ireland but I nixed that since that is where I am taking Marcia for our anniversary next year. I doubt she would enjoy a Brothers Bike Ride for our anniversary.

Our accommodations tonight is a very nice B&B a few blocks from the downtown district of this little town. We spent our cold beer wind down doing bike maintenance in an outside garden area. We walked to a bike store to replenish tubes and a new tire for Mark. Dinner was a short walk back to ‘downtown’ which featured outdoor dining and live country music. Even though it is only 8 o’clock, I am ready for bed. I can feel my body demanding as much sleep as possible for these full days on the bike. My nightly call to Marcia is next and then ‘lights out’ for me.

When Tim and Beth worked out the route last night, we decided to stay on U.S. 90 East for most of the ride today, instead of using the Adventure Cycling Assocation (ACA) maps.  That saved us about 15 miles, which was great!  There were rolling hills from Tallahassee to Monticello (the county seat of Jefferson County – imagine that!), after which it was basically flat until we rode into Madison.  We had about 7 more miles of riding to get to our hotel, which is at the intersection of Interstate 10 and Florida 53.  With some headwinds, those were tough final miles at the end of the ride.  Here are just a few photos I took along the ride – Mark has some really good ones today.

Tim checking the maps at our first stop.

Tim checking the maps at our first stop.

Mark's half beefcake shot of the day.

Mark’s half beefcake shot of the day.

Lake Miccosukee from US 90.

Lake Miccosukee from US 90.

Jefferson County Courthouse in Monticello, FL.

Jefferson County Courthouse in Monticello, FL.

Tim reading a historical marker in Greenville, FL.

Tim reading a historical marker in Greenville, FL.

After making it to our Best Western outside of Madison, we all enjoyed a celebratory beer, after which we went back to our rooms to shower and nap.  We met up a few hours later and Beth drove us back to downtown Madison for dinner at the Rancho Grande Mexican Restaurant, where we all enjoyed an excellent meal!

Interior of Rancho Grande Mexican Restaurant in downtown Madison, FL.

Interior of Rancho Grande Mexican Restaurant in downtown Madison, FL.  The food was excellent!

Prickly pear and agave plant in downtown Madison, FL. I just could not pass up this photo op!

Prickly pear and agave plant in downtown Madison, FL. I just could not pass up this photo op!

Live Oak with Spanish Moss in downtown Madison, FL.

Live Oak with Spanish Moss in downtown Madison, FL.

Tomorrow we ride to High Springs, FL and I am hoping Tim finds a way to cut some miles out of the 90 mile ACA route.

What a gorgeous day. Some things do average out. Last year’s leg the weather was cold and rainy. This year’s leg, the weather couldn’t be more perfect. Smooth roads; bike lanes/shoulders most of the time. What a difference a year makes.

This part of Florida has counties named after southern statesmen like Jefferson, Madison, Washington and Calhoun to name a few. We stopped for a break in the county seat of Jefferson County which was called, what else, Monticello. Pretty little town that seemed as though time passed it by. The scenery has been pleasant with a lot more hills than anyone expected. The terrain did seem to flatten out after we got into Madison County. This part of Florida definitely has a southern feel to it.

Matt and I paired off and Brian and Mark paired off for a good part of the day. Each group had plenty to talk about. At one point, Mark and Brian pulled up to us and Brian was giving an answer to the trivia game they were playing. When we asked what Brian was talking about, Mark explained the game they were playing but added it was “their game and we couldn’t play”.

It is somewhat bittersweet to think we only have three more days of riding to complete the ‘Southern Tier’. Of course, this has been a trip of a lifetime and quite an accomplishment. We have had so many laughs and shared experiences. I love our routine of arriving at our destination for the night, putting the bikes in our rooms and meeting in Beth’s room for a cold beer and some conversation about the high and the low of the day. It is hard to do it justice in this blog. I’ll think more about that for tomorrow’s blog.